August 1 - 5, 2013…Lake Williams to Prince Rupert, BC Canada

We woke up super excited to be out of the city and attack the day.  Today is perfect!  The clear and crisp mountain air around us fills our lungs and clears our heads, what a great day to be riding.  The fresh morning blossoms into a mildly warm day and we find ourselves comfortably settling back into the groove.  Just a wonderful day of riding though this majestic countryside.  We were freshly splashed with a few large rain drops here and there, but nothing major!  After 5 hours of riding the meaty part of my left thumb was fairly sore, so, we decided to call it a day at Lake Williams.  After getting off the bike I realized that the clutch assembly was loose and had slipped forward causing my hand to stretch forward farther.  Easy fix!   Looking forward to tomorrow!  

After a good nights sleep and some deep heat massaging cream on my left thumb and palm area I was pretty good to go again.  My right arm has twinges of muscle stress from time to time, but nothing major.  Every day that I ride I gain more strength along with a more confident and comfortable statue.  I'm really glad to be back on the bike!  I don't know if I'm just so happy to be back on the bike or if it has something to do with these super long daylight days.  The daylight hours are getting longer as we ride farther north, and it is such a cool mindset to feel like you have a day and then some!  I have to tell you... it is so so tempting to just keep on riding.  Eventually far, far into the day and after many miles, or kilometers cause we are in Canada 'ay…. you will ride into a sunset ;)  

Todays ride took us into Vanderhoof which is actually the geographical center of British Columbia.  Vanderhoof is an interesting town, kind of like a cowboy Germany?…hmmmm.  It is actually the geographical center of British Columbia.  Apart from experiencing a black bear bound across the roadway, which was awesome, the scenery has not been too impressive since leaving the Cascade Mountain area.  We go to sleep in daylight now and are waking in daylight…really a trippy experience!

We are now ahead of schedule and have plenty of time to make the ferry leaving on the 6th.  Looking at the map we really could make it to Prince Rupert today if we wanted to…and, damn it, I think we want to!  Now google tells us that it will take us 7.5 hours, kind of a long day, but we can always change our minds 'ay?  It is 9am and we have left cowboy Germany…yee haa!

The scenery was starting to become more impressive again, as we followed the Yellowhead Highway, that will eventually lead us to the coast once again.  From the township of Smithers, onward, mother nature turned it up!  We passed by eye grabbers like Hudson Bay Mountain, Seven Sisters Peaks, and Mount Kenney.  The weather began to chill, and the winds picked up as we followed the meandering highway that ran along the Skeena River.  We had been riding for 8 hours now and Prince Rupert was almost in sight.  We were starting to get tired and found a cozy wooded rest area along the river where we embraced a leg stretch and 15 minute snooze.   Refreshed we continued our way into Prince Rupert, secured our camping spot and headed out for a warm meal.  It was 10pm by the time we headed back to our campsite.  As we pulled up a roaring fire was welcoming us…how cool was that!  Our Westy traveling neighbor, Ian a few sites down, gathered some wood, lit a fire and had our site warmly aglow upon our return!  Way to go Ian…thanks!  It felt just as awesome to be back in the tent, as it was to be on the bikes!  

We camped in Prince Rupert for the next 3 nights.  It was different getting used to so much light at night.  We quickly adjusted our sleeping schedule to stay up later and sleep in later, hopefully sleeping in long enough for the wetness of the dew filled morning to dry our tent and bike covers.  We spent the next couple of days wandering around Prince Rupert, visiting the cute fishing village of Cow Bay, and even treated ourselves to a matinee movie…The Wolverine.  Hugh Jackman rocks big time, and is an Aussie 'ay?…Oi Oi Oi!  We also scoped out the ferry situation, picked up our tickets, sorted out our ferry camping gear and were ready to hit the inside passage up to Alaska!

 

Riding into Squatch Country...Kev feels that he could blend in! 

Riding into Squatch Country...Kev feels that he could blend in! 

 The countryside is turning it up and beautiful turquoise rivers start to appear. 

 The countryside is turning it up and beautiful turquoise rivers start to appear. 

Rest area along the way 

Rest area along the way 

Surprise welcoming with a fire that Ian built! 

Surprise welcoming with a fire that Ian built! 

Nothing beats a camp brekky and a fire! 

Nothing beats a camp brekky and a fire! 

Sharing  traveling routes

Sharing  traveling routes

 Thats enough wood to get us through tonight!

 Thats enough wood to get us through tonight!

Colorful and quaint Cow Bay .

Colorful and quaint Cow Bay .

Cow Bay 

Cow Bay 

Cow Bay 

Cow Bay 

 Bald Eagles on a tower at Cow Bay

 Bald Eagles on a tower at Cow Bay

Get with it...You're in Canada now 'ay! 

Get with it...You're in Canada now 'ay! 

July 31, 2013…Hope BC, Canada

It has been 13 days since we arrived in Vancouver, and feels like a month!

Finally, today we are back on the bikes and heading North towards Alaska.  It has surprisingly been 5 months since the accident on the Oonandatta Track in Coober Pedy, Australia that left me with both arms in casts.  I must admit that I have been experiencing an apprehensive nervous excitement about our next leg.  My arms twinge oddly from time to time, and I have to work at not letting my mind buy into it!  Deep down I know that I will be fine…that once I am rolling down the road, smelling and experiencing the world around me, all will be peachy!  

It was 4pm before we actually started heading out…just one of those days!  The BMW shop finished our bikes around 1pm, then we loaded up our gear, fiddled with the communication system for an hour or so, returned the rental car, fueled up the bikes and decided to go for it.  We really just wanted to get going and get out of the burbs congestion…it can literally drive you batty!

It took about an hour to escape the congestion, then another hour to decompress! I am stoked sporting a huge cheesy grin in my helmet, Hell Yeah, it's happening…we are totally stoked to be back on the road…Woo Hoo!!!  Our route takes us inland towards Kamloops today.  We made an executive decision not to ride the mountain road through Whistler.  Yes it would have been  spectacular but my left thumb is still compromised and I did not want to get into a situation that caused me problems with too much clutch work on our first day back.  

It has already been a long day, so we call it after 2 hours of riding and decide to rest up in a town called Hope….So appropriate!

 

Alaska here we come!  First day back on the bike! 

Alaska here we come!  First day back on the bike! 

 Fraser River, Hope British Columbia, Canada

 Fraser River, Hope British Columbia, Canada

It will take a week or so to get back into the swing of it. 

It will take a week or so to get back into the swing of it. 

July 17 - 30, 2013…Vancouver, Canada

Today is a very exciting day for us….After 8 weeks of backpacking around Asia we are now heading towards the bikes.  

We left Nai Yang Beach, Phuket at 6 am this morning. Arrived at Bangkok Airport, the one with the golf course in between the runways, go figure!  We arrived 30 minutes ahead of schedule, bussed to the other airport 1 hour away caught our flight to Hong Kong, made our way through the hamster levels and tunnels of the airport, and are now waiting for our flight to Beijing... 13 hours down... getting closer Vancouver!

We arrived at Beijing Airport with only 20 minutes before they closed the gates on our Canada flight.  Kev and I busted into a full on sprint that I have to say almost killed us, but, way worth it!  Our tenacity and effort got noticed and as we took a wrong turn, Canada Air officials sort us out, and ran with us to the gate.  You rock!..Thanks so much for holding the gate open for us after our delay in Hong Kong. 6 airports, 4 airlines, 1 taxi, 1 bus, and 1 shuttle later we have finally arrived in Vancouver = 32 hours of travel!  Loving the adventure, but tired. Our backpacks didn't make it, but, should be arriving on the next Beijing flight tomorrow. Bonus!!!  We got a glimpse of Alaska out the window of the airplane.  We'll be riding into it shortly and it still looks a little frozen to me? Brrrrr.

We met with the shipping company the day after and found out that our bikes were here but still containered after clearing a soil inspection.  It would take another couple of days before the container was unloaded into the bonded warehouse facility for pick up.  We were instructed to visit the Border and Customs Control office in downtown Vancouver to have our paperwork stamped and cleared, and possibly face another soil inspection. It was Friday so we decided deal with this next week.  We headed towards the US to see our son and his wife in Washington, we would travel back Monday morning to take care of the paperwork.  

Border and Customs Control did require another soil inspection on the bikes and they passed, so we paid the additional $46 and got our paperwork stamped.  We headed over to the bank to transfer $200 payable to the shipping company that paid for the man time to open the container for the first soil inspection. We then headed over to a Uhaul Truck rental company, rented a truck and headed to the bonded warehouse to pick up the bikes.  We paid the warehouse an additional $40 per bike to clear the warehouse.  After lifting one bike into the back of the truck it was clear that another would not fit.  It is going to be a double trip, oh well the warehouse closes in 30 minutes anyway.  We truck on over to the BMW service department and drop off the bike.  We repeated this procedure the following day and then returned the rental truck.  Boy does it feel good to have the bikes back in our hands.  The bikes are scheduled to be serviced ready for our trip to Alaska.  Kev and I decided to make a second trip down to Washington and spend a little more time with our son and his wife before heading out.

Border controls can be a bitch at times….

Boarder Control; Where is home?

Cat & Kev; Lake Tahoe, Nevada

Boarder Control; Where are you traveling from

Cat & Kev; Vancouver

BC; What is the purpose of your visit

C&K; to pick up our motorcycles and ride to Alaska

BC; why are your motorcycles in Vancouver?

C&K; We had them shipped there from Australia

BC; Why were you in Australia

C&K; We motorcycled for a year around Australia and New Zealand

BC; Why didn't you have them shipped to Alaska?

C&K; Because it was cheaper to ship them to Vancouver

BC; When did you arrive in Canada

C&K; a couple of days ago, we are waiting for our bikes to clear a soil inspection

BC; Where did you arrive from?

C&K; Thailand

BC; What were you doing in Thailand?

C&K; Backpacking

BC; Hand me the keys to your car!!

BC; Do you have any narcotics, drugs or medicines?

BC; Are you caring any weapons?

C&K; No, we are not

BC; opens the boot, looks through our back packs, opens the passenger doors and goes through our belongings

BC; Why is she squeezing a stress ball?…Is she stressed?

C&K; No, I'm not stressed, I broke both my arms in the outback of Australia and I am working on building the strength back up

BC; Amazing story…move on through!   

 

Making our way back to the bikes.  Landed in Bangkok. 

Making our way back to the bikes.  Landed in Bangkok. 

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 Looks kind of chilly down there!  Checking out Alaska above the clouds.

 Looks kind of chilly down there!  Checking out Alaska above the clouds.

Loading one bike into the Uhaul truck from the bonded warehouse.

Loading one bike into the Uhaul truck from the bonded warehouse.

Truck'n one bike over to BMW for a service...10-4 OzCat! 

Truck'n one bike over to BMW for a service...10-4 OzCat! 

 Unloading at Pacific BMV, Vancouver, Canada.

 Unloading at Pacific BMV, Vancouver, Canada.

Unloading the second bike. 

Unloading the second bike. 

Finally the bikes are in our hands... ready to be assembled and serviced.

Finally the bikes are in our hands... ready to be assembled and serviced.

Fun times at the Canadian, U.S border :)

Fun times at the Canadian, U.S border :)

Visiting our son Paul and his wife Karolyn in Washington. 

Visiting our son Paul and his wife Karolyn in Washington. 

Paul & Karolyn 

Paul & Karolyn 

  Enjoying a brekky out with Karolyn.

  Enjoying a brekky out with Karolyn.

A big "Cheers" for a wonderful visit!  Thanks for all of the delicious home cooking Karolyn, it was a fabulous treat !

A big "Cheers" for a wonderful visit!  Thanks for all of the delicious home cooking Karolyn, it was a fabulous treat !

May 15 - 20, 2013...Oz to San Francisco...then onto Asia

Since I will not be able to ride my bike safely until some time in July the plan is to ship the bikes onto our next riding destination, and take a break somewhere warm!

We cleaned the bikes and sorted through our gear in preparation for them to be crated.  I was definitely feeling handicapped!  My right arm does not have lifting strength, and my left thumb is somewhat frozen in this screwy position, so I fumbled around being limited help!  We finally got it done, loaded the bikes onto the trailer and headed to the shipping company for them to be created.  We decided to ship the bikes to Vancouver because it was cheaper than shipping them to Anchorage.  Vancouver's custom and immigration procedures were known to be less cumbersome than U.S, Alaska's or Washington's reputation.  

It has been decided we will take a break in Asia and backpack around Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam.  First we need to make a quick stop over in San Francisco and surprise our youngest son Christopher, at his graduation from the Fire Academy!

  

A quick stop over in Frisco...probably one of the most photographed bridges, The Golden Gate...it never gets old!

A quick stop over in Frisco...probably one of the most photographed bridges, The Golden Gate...it never gets old!

 Fire Academy Graduation

 Fire Academy Graduation

Congratulations Ray & Christopher! 

Congratulations Ray & Christopher! 

Proud parents! 

Proud parents! 

 Godspeed Christopher!

 Godspeed Christopher!

Doo Town, Tasmania

All in doo time...I had to dedicate a special section for this unique Tassie town...​doo you wanna see...no doo da ling around now!...Sorry could not help myself!!!  ha ha ha

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April 29 - 30, 2013…Hobart

Today we head back to Hobart, Australia's second oldest capital city founded in 1804, via a couple more of Tassie's historical and sweet sights…the township of Ross, and Cadbury's!  

Ross is a now tranquil colonial village almost untouched by time and a fascinating town to visit.  It is home to the Female Factory.  Originally a male punishment facility, it was adapted and used as a probation station for women, housing 60 - 120 women at any given time, along with infants, if any.  Ross Bridge was constructed within 18 months, purely by convict labor, and is the third oldest and the finest, sandstone bridge in Australia.  The 6 arched bridge was completed in 1836, and is expertly sculptured, with Celtic inspiration.  Kev and I enjoyed walking around the colonial township, imagining the yesteryears .  We did stop in and at a beautiful bakery and enjoy a freshly baked Tasmania Scallop Pie, just to complete the whole sight, smell and taste of the area!…ha ha ha.  Onto Cadburys!

Cadbury Chocolates, actually now owned by Kraft, does not offer tours into the actual factory.  You are able to join in on an authored presentation and video session to learn about the wonders of making chocolate, before being let loose into the chocolate purchasing area behind the double doors.  

On into Hobart, a very clean laid back major town for city standards, with an awesome "chill" feel, and I am not talking about the brisk breeze off the Tasman Sea!  We lucked out, the weather has been kind to us, and we are able to shop around for awhile and enjoy the whole vibe.  Time to clean up and out the van, cook that abalone for dinner tonight and prepare ourselves for arriving back on the mainland.  The abalone cooked up to perfection, carefully following instructions from the seller.  I served it with a pesto angel hair pasta, and smooth drop of red...A great salute to Tasmania!..We'll be back girl!

Over looking Moulting Lagoon Game Reserve.

Over looking Moulting Lagoon Game Reserve.

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Historic convict town of Ross.​

Historic convict town of Ross.​

Convict built bridge at Ross.​

Convict built bridge at Ross.​

Ross Female Factory.​

Ross Female Factory.​

Ross church

Ross church

Kev & Freddo @ the Cadbury's Chocolate Factory.

Kev & Freddo @ the Cadbury's Chocolate Factory.

Cat & Freddo.​

Cat & Freddo.​

We sure had a devil of a time!​

We sure had a devil of a time!

April 28, 2013…Freycinet National Park, Coles Bay

You know I have this really big map of Tasmania, which is shown almost the size of mainland Australia.  I always have a laugh!  We plan and set out for our days adventure and lickity split…POOF, we have arrived at our final destination…ha ha ha

We van into Freycinet National Park, Tasmania's first National Park…  Wow, this is another cool area that is just filled with cool bush life, and many wonderful walks.  We decide to call it another early day…very early day after checking in just after 11 am…ha ha ha.  I trek off into the bush only to find an echidna.  It has been many, many years since I have seen one in the bush, so now I have the perfect opportunity to capture it on film.  After balling up well over 10 times or so, Ms. Echidna decided that the shutter noise on my camera was not a threat and began to relax and allow me to photograph her.  Amazingly enough she began to blow bubbles from her nose holes in her long snout…it was very cool to watch!  Either she had a cold, or was totally stressed out, I hope the later was not the case!  After getting situated, but before getting settled, we decide to head back to an oyster farm that we had passed along the way to have lunch.  The seafood is amazing, and we enjoy a lunch of oysters, scallops and abalone, before heading back into Freycinet.  I did pick up a fresh abalone to cook for lunch the next day…I have never prepared abalone, so I am looking forward to the experience.

Back at our van site we explore the bays, beaches and bush walks around us.  Another fabulous day in Tassie!

An echidna ​

An echidna ​

An echidna blowing bubbles!​

An echidna blowing bubbles!​

Our camp spot facing the ocean at Freycinet National Park.​

Our camp spot facing the ocean at Freycinet National Park.​

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lunch....oysters, scallops and abalone

lunch....oysters, scallops and abalone

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Blue Wren

Blue Wren

A new day at Coles Bay

A new day at Coles Bay

April 27, 2013…Bicheno

Hello Mr. Sun, sporting your amazing fiery rays…what a way to be woken!  Kev and I travel the gorgeous eastern coastline, and deice to quit early at the sea side town of Bicheno…because it is just that…"Bitch'n Ohh"

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The water is crystal clear...although chilly!

The water is crystal clear...although chilly!

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April 26, 2013…Binalong Bay, Bay of Fires

We will be making our way over to the east coast of Tasmania today.  It was fantastic to wake up full of energy after being warm, comfy and cozy in a fluffy bed!…Thanks a ton!

Chrissie and Brian decided that they would ride, and we would follow, over to the east coast.  This was super kind of them, but, I really think that they just wanted us to drool and envy at them attacking the awesomeness of the country backroads.  I could feel my body lean into the corners as I watched Brian and Chrissie from behind.   I was having a heck of a time trying to keep up with them on their Moto Guzzi, it was a lot of fun!

As we drove through the amazing picturesque countryside, you can't help but think of Tasmania as one big National Park, absolutely beautiful.  Sometimes your eyes would play tricks on you!  I swear I was back in New Zealand, the hinterland of Queensland, Victoria's Gippsland region, South Australia's Barossa Valley, on the amazing coastline of Western Australia, even experiencing the red dirt of the Outback…it is just way too cool!  Tassie you are definitely a jewel…"like New Zealand, or the Oz Mainland ONLY different!"  We enjoyed a farm fresh lunch at the local dairy farm of Pyengana, then hiked up to St. Columba Falls…now onto St Helens and Binalong Bay for a coffee and baklava!  What an awesome couple of days Chrissie and Brian thanks again for everything!

Kev and I sat looking out over the fresh crystal waters of Binalong Bay, as Chrissie and Brian rode off into the sunset…We miss their company already!  We hopped back into the van and decided to secure a free beach camping spot before night falls.  We got lucky and found the perfect spot right on the beach.  The moon was rising full over the chilly, clear, and calm Tasman Sea…and we settled in for another beautiful, and unusually warm night.

We are going beyond the Ranges in the distance today...amazing countryside!​

We are going beyond the Ranges in the distance today...amazing countryside!​

St. Columbia Falls, Pyengana.​

St. Columbia Falls, Pyengana.​

​​​Platypus live here! 

​Platypus live here! 

Kev, Brian and Chrissie checking out one of the tallest waterfalls in Tasmania, St. Columbia Falls! ​

Kev, Brian and Chrissie checking out one of the tallest waterfalls in Tasmania, St. Columbia Falls! ​

Kev & Brian

Kev & Brian

Binalong Bay, Bay of Fires

Binalong Bay, Bay of Fires

The bay was given its name in 1773 by Captain Tobias Furneaux  who saw the area beaches lit  up with fires by the Aboriginal Tribes of the area. 

The bay was given its name in 1773 by Captain Tobias Furneaux  who saw the area beaches lit  up with fires by the Aboriginal Tribes of the area. 

Our free beach camp for the night!....No complaining here!​

Our free beach camp for the night!....No complaining here!​

​Beautiful warm night.

Beautiful warm night.

Thanks for everything Chrissie & Brian!​

Thanks for everything Chrissie & Brian!​

April 25, 2013…Launceston

Today is ANZAC Day.  Kev and I are very excited today because we have planned to catch up with a wonderful motorcycle couple that we met while visiting Uluru.  Chrissie and Brian live in Launceston which is today only a hop skip and jump from us!  

Chrissie and Brian waited and waved us down as we pulled closer to their home.  It was really great to be able to see them again, and just connect and continue where we had left off at the Magic Red Rock!  We got right into it…talk, talk, talk!  After lunch we enjoyed walking through Cataract Gorge, where the autumn leaves are bursting with color.  Peacocks and wallabies were out and the rest of the day was spent talking, catching up, sharing stories, eating and relaxing by the fire.  Chrissie has offered for us to stay the night in the guest room, and we warmly accept.  It is absolutely awesome when you can firstly connect with complete strangers, then secondly get another chance to connect and catch up, and finally feel that you have known these people all of your life!

Albany, Western Australia has something in common with Launceston, Tasmania.  It is also the home of another "Dog Rock"! Unofficial of course!…wink wink, Debbie McBride…ha ha ha

Brian and Kev

Brian and Kev

Cat and Chrissie

Cat and Chrissie

Cataract George.​

Cataract George.​

Launceston's, unofficial Dog Rock!​

Launceston's, unofficial Dog Rock!​

April 24, 2013…Mole Creek

Penguin is a very quaint town facing Bass Strait.  Kev and I enjoyed soaking in the views from our camping chairs and later as it cooled from the van windows.  It was an extraordinarily beautiful night.  Penguins do surf into this area, but we have missed their window.  Ahh… I always sleep soundly listening to the sound of the surf, and feeling the ocean breeze skim my face…almost better than riding a bike…close but no cigar!  We wake to the van leaning towards one side in the rear…yep we have a flat!  I am thankful that we did not encounter this crossing the Tarkine Wilderness.  A simple call to the RACT solves the problem.  Warren our repair guy replaces the tire in minutes, but leaves an hour later after chatting about his biking adventures and listening to ours!  

We are on our way to Cradle Mountain today…Ahh it is killing me, this is the ultimate bike riding countryside!  Kev and I make a promise to return and experience all, and more, on 2 wheels! 

Switchbacks, dips, rises, tucks, rolls…heaven…a bikers paradise.  But I am getting into the rhythm of the road, even though caged, I imagine I'm on the bike!  I find slightly more movement in my hands and arms everyday!  The vibrations, and pull of the steering wheel not to mention the stick shift gently force me to build up my strength and resistance….but at this moment, I'm just simply loving the road!  Roads like this only sport the most spectacular scenery, and believe me it was all that!

As we pull into the Cradle Mountain World Heritage Area the skies have misted up and it begins to rain.  We decide to move on and continue our back road driving, soaking in everything Tassie has to offer.  We are passing by Mole Creek, and notice a small Caravan Park.  We decide to pull in relax, catch up with the laundry, and call it a day.

 

Golden morning in Penguin.

Golden morning in Penguin.

RACT and Warren to the rescue!​​

RACT and Warren to the rescue!​

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Moon over Mole Creek!​

Moon over Mole Creek!​

April 23, 2013…Penguin

It was a long long spooky night.  The van was parked back into a small clearing on the side of the road.  We were off the road but perched high and exposed to all the elements.  Bitter ice cold winds whipped up and over the Norfolk Ranges screeching and howling towards our devil van, shaking the tinny sides of the vehicle as they plowed through! Strong down pours of rain pelted the van and lasted for what seemed hours at a time.  It definitely was a long, long bitter cold night.  It was a comforting sense of relief to actually wake up to a ray of sun beaming in through a tiny opening of the vans curtains!…Maybe we will make it out of here after all? We decided to take advantage of the lull in the weather… get up and out…I'll fix brekky further down the track.  As the sun rose higher into the dark clouded sky you could see that maybe just maybe we'd get lucky and make it all the way to Arthur River without incident?  It is wonderful how the sun gives you a warm sense of security and hope!  The white silica road has held up well over this very wet night, and we slowly meander our way through this amazing raw wildernesss.  I marvel at the amazing array of rainbows we are experiencing, busy bustling birdlife and kangaroos are all out and about taking advantage of the warming break in the weather.  We have not seen a single soul all morning!  We pull slightly off the road at the Balfour Track, which is flooded and Kev turns on the gas.  We kick back for 20 minutes or so while I prepare a a hot cuppa and a warm brekky.

We make it to the Edge of the World by Noon, and boy is she blowing.  The energy at the edge is fierce, strong enough to sway your balance…exciting though.  Ok, enough of that, back in the van and crank up the heat.  If we were on the bikes it would be… crank up the grip heater to fire!…Burrrrr!  The Devil Van's tires has survived the white silica road, rocky and rough at times, without damage…what a huge relief!

A late cooked fish and chip lunch in the van, the fresh fish caught by Sascha and Kerstin, at the base of "The Nut" in Stanley…we are now at the top western area of Tassie.

Now fully fed, and a little drowsy from the warmth of the van we slowly decide to head over to the township of Penguin…just because it has a cute name!

After a harsh, wet, wild and spooky night we woke up to this!

After a harsh, wet, wild and spooky night we woke up to this!

"Mr Sun won't you come and wash away the rain!​"

"Mr Sun won't you come and wash away the rain!​"

​Morning hoppers!...There was a loud bang accompanied by the van rocking in the early hours of the morning...wonder if it was a roo?

Morning hoppers!...There was a loud bang accompanied by the van rocking in the early hours of the morning...wonder if it was a roo?

We saw many amazing rainbows​ today!

We saw many amazing rainbows​ today!

Stopping for lunch next to the Balfour Track​.

Stopping for lunch next to the Balfour Track​.

​Edge of the World.

Edge of the World.

"The Nut", Stanley

"The Nut", Stanley

​Yay...Penguins!

Yay...Penguins!

​Our turn off to the Penguin Caravan Park.

​Our turn off to the Penguin Caravan Park.

Beautiful sky in Penguin tonight!​

Beautiful sky in Penguin tonight!​

Along with an amazing view!​

Along with an amazing view!​

April 22, 2013…Tarkine Wilderness, Tasmania

We wake as the morning sun is glistening lakeside.  Kev pulls the van closer to the lake.  We enjoy brekky, overlooking the lake and laughing at the morning birdlife antics…I can't believe that we are the only ones here!!!  Today our plan is to make it onto the Western Explorer Road, known as theWhite Sliica Road.  

The road today takes us through the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park, on into Queenstown, a commercial mining town for the Mt Lyell copper mine to Strahan, a picturesque fishing town on the King River and Macquarie Harbor that hosted the harsh penal settlement of Sarah Island 1821-34 then to Zeehan, which was once the states 3rd largest town, named by Matthew Flinders after Abel Tasman's ship Zeehaen.  After Zeehaen the road becomes a white silica road, then we cross the Pieman river on a one car ferry named "Fatmans Barge".  The Pieman River was named after the cannibal convict Alexander Pierce who, the map indicated, was jailed for selling tainted pies in Hobart Town.  Other reports we read indicated that in 1822, Alexander Pierce, along with 7 fellow prisoners escaped from the harsh penal settlement on Sarah Island and into the surrounding bushland.  After running out of food the tale goes that the seven convicts drew straws to see who we be slaughtered and fed to the others.  At this point, two of the convicts escaped from the group and were never seen again.  Of the remaining six, only Alexander Pierce was ever found alive and the other five were the apparent source of food.  After hanging Pierce, the prison cut his body into pieces before disposing of him.  A gruesome, but true, story.  On the other side of the Pieman River is the little town of Corinna, Aborigional for "a young Tasmanian Tiger" and then we headed on up into the Tarkine Wilderness.  Corinna, a historic mining town, is famous for being the location of the largest gold nugget found in Tasmania.  This is an amazingly lush beautiful area that is situated on the southern end of the Tarkine, Australia's largest temperate rainforest, and where the Huon pine grow.  Truly  untouched pristine wilderness that boasts a living link to the ancient super continent Gondwana.

 

​The sunrise over Lake Binney.

​The sunrise over Lake Binney.

​Big roo's...beware!

​Big roo's...beware!

Queenstown, Tasmania

Queenstown, Tasmania

Charming seaside town of Strahan

Charming seaside town of Strahan

Zeehan Pub!​

Zeehan Pub!​

Crossing the Pieman River on the Fatman Barge to Corinna

Crossing the Pieman River on the Fatman Barge to Corinna

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Corinna

Corinna

The beautiful white silica rd., through the Tarkine Wilderness.

The beautiful white silica rd., through the Tarkine Wilderness.

April 21, 2013…Lake Binney, Tasmania

We woke early and watched the fog roll into the bay off the Tasman Ocean.  It reminded me of the fog rolling over the hills into San Francisco.  As we enjoyed a tasty German Breakfast, of cured meats, cheeses, and bread, the fog slowly lifted to reveal another beautiful crisp sunny day. Sascha insisted that we go fishing with him this morning before we headed off.  One more cup of coffee and we climbed down the cliffside, me with very guarded uncertainty since just having my casts off less than a week ago.  Kerstin showed me her sea urchin collection that she had stashed away in tide pools.  Kerstin hooked up her pole and within minutes caught a great bait fish, which within seconds Kevin proceeded to fling off the line as he cast in out to sea!  Never trust a yank with your bait!  We had a super fun morning of fishing, tide pooling and messing around.  Time flies when you are having fun, and before we knew it we were on our way once again pleased that we had made  the adventurer connection….Thanks for everything Sascha and Kerstin from Germany!

The hippy township of Cygnet was just up the road and we decided to stop at their Farmers Market to pick up some fresh food for the next couple of days.  Kev was caught up at the fresh jam stands, I was at the relishes.  "Would you like to try some chutney?", the elderly farm/hippy dressed lady asked from behind her table.  "Yes, that would be nice", I replied.  "Hold out your hand", she said.  I looked up at her with a puzzled expression!  "Just hold out your hand and I will plop a little chutney on your palm", she smiled.  Ok.  So I opened my right palm and she plopped a nice dollop s of wet fruity chutney onto my palm.  I looked up at her with a puzzled expression?  "Suck if off your hand", she insisted. Ok.  I slurped it off my hand, and managed to get most of it over my face, I'm guessing because my right hand and wrist does not have the complete range of movement since the break?  Or maybe it has just been a long time since I have eaten a wet dollop off my palm?…ha ha ha.  Just as I had sucked the dollop off the "Relish Lady" grabbed by hand and wiped it with a wet sponge and had placed another sample in my palm to taste.  Now this time I have to tell you I was really hesitant to indulge.  I looked up at the lady with an "are you kidding me" expression…Oh what the heck!!  I slurped off the second and third tasting!  The "Relish Lady" waited on my chutney choice… "I'll take the zesty tomato"!  Oh my gosh my eyes just caught a glimpse of that little bucket of water that she had got the sponge out of…. I felt sick.  

Back on the road, past Huonville, Tasmania's largest apple growing district, then on and up the steep windy climb to summit of Mt. Wellington with the campervan doing the "Devil Crawl"  We had driven into a frozen cloud, unable to see anything at all and decided to drive down, snap a few shots where the cloud had lifted, crank up the heat and drive as far as we could before night falls continuing our travel towards the west coast of Tassie.  We pulled off at a free camp right on the shores of Lake Binney.  It has been a fun long day so we called it a night.

What ya got Kev?​....Mmmm seaweed salad!

What ya got Kev?​....Mmmm seaweed salad!

Dinner keeping fresh in a tide pool!​  There was an amazing amount of seafood, especially oysters and muscles easily picked for eating!

Dinner keeping fresh in a tide pool!​  There was an amazing amount of seafood, especially oysters and muscles easily picked for eating!

View over Hobart devil climbing our way up Mt. Wellington

View over Hobart devil climbing our way up Mt. Wellington

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Awesome free camp @ Lake Binney

Awesome free camp @ Lake Binney

April 20, 2013…Blackmans Bay, Eggs & Bacon Bay, Tasmania

We have caught up with Sascha and Kerstin, fellow German motorcycle adventurists.  Sascha and Kerstin have traveled from Germany, through Asia down the west coast of Australia riding 2up.  Kev and I actually rode by them as we were leaving Esperance, Western Australia, and now as luck happens, they are shacked up and chilling in Eggs and Bacon Bay, Tasmania.  Today we will make our way towards them via the coastal roads.  

The well maintained roads of the Channel Highway curve, dip and ridge back and forth, and it is an amazingly crisp, clear and sunny day.  Ahh, do we wish that we were on our bikes right now!!!  We pull into the small coastal township of Blackmans Bay, park the van by the cliffside, slide open the side door, breathe in that amazing Tasman Ocean air, watch the locals hunt for crays, and decide to make lunch.  I'm enjoy the ease of preparing a fresh lunch, with my mini mobile kitchen, it is a little more cumbersome on the bikes.  Back on the road we van it through Snug, Flowerpot, Verona Sands and turn off onto a dirt road that leads to Eggs and Bacon Bay.  Along the way I pulled by a fantastic organic roadside stand and picked up some fresh goats cheese, spreads, sourdough bread, and red wine to enjoy with Sascha and Kerstin.  

Sascha greeted us with his warm German smile and hug!  "You're walking?" he queried…"Yes, I am!  I broke both arms not my legs thank God!", I responded.  Ha Ha Ha, "We'll that is good, I was coming out to help Kev carry you down!" Sascha joked.  Kev and I made our way down the embankment to the small bay shack they are staying in.  Kirsten warmly greeted us at the front door and invited us in….We spent the rest of the evening watching the sunset over the calm Bay waters, sharing biking stories, learning about each other, drinking wine and enjoying a fabulous warm meal.

Blackmans Bay​

Blackmans Bay

Lunch time entertainment at Blackmans Bay watching 3 guys getting tossed around in the surf spearing fishing!

Lunch time entertainment at Blackmans Bay watching 3 guys getting tossed around in the surf spearing fishing!

Awesome coastline

Awesome coastline

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Eggs & Bacon Bay

Eggs & Bacon Bay

Kerstin showing Cat the sweet spots of free camping!​

Kerstin showing Cat the sweet spots of free camping!​

Sascha, no doubt telling some fishy stories!​

Sascha, no doubt telling some fishy stories!

Kerstin's sea urchin collection!​

Kerstin's sea urchin collection!​

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Sascha's catch!​

Sascha's catch!​

Kerstin trying to catch a bait fish, and succeeding!​​

Kerstin trying to catch a bait fish, and succeeding!​

April 17 - 19, 2013…White Sands & Port Arthur, Tasmania

It is very exciting to be back on the road again…even though we are traveling via 4 wheels instead of the preferred 2!!!  For the short term I will openly embrace the warmth and comfort of this caged environment.  Our plan is to explore the back roads, engage "steering wheel therapy", and basically just enjoying every moment of campervan madness while my arms and hands heal, regain their strength, and are once again up to no good! You never know we may grow to like it!….The campervan experience that is!  I know you were thinking of the "up to no good" part…ha ha ha!!!!

Kev and I decided to rent our Toyota Hiace Campervan from "the Devil himself"…Devil Campervans, this would definitely guarantee us a Devilish good time…ahhh this is already getting old…ha ha ha.  The fight from Melbourne Airport to Hobart was just under 1 hour.  Within the next hour we had been cleared by the agricultural sniffer dog, been picked up by Devil Campervans, completed the camper paperwork, and were once again excited to be on our adventure again.  We looked at the map and decided to head to White Sands Beach, just outside of the historic convict site of Port Arthur, to camp for the night.  We traveled through a long stretch that was decimated by the fires Tasmania had experienced a few months earlier.  As we drove past a burned out home I noticed a lady sitting in what was once her living room in front of the fireplace talking on her cell phone.  She was seated on a camping chair and the entire home was burned to the foundation.  It was an emotionally moving image.  

We bought groceries along the way, pulled into White Sands Caravan park and they directed us to a spot right next to the beach.  The park was nearly empty and it was sprinkling rain as we set up for our first night in the camper cage.  Wow, we've got meat, milk, heat, a sink, and, a roof over our head for tonight.  If we were on the bikes we'd be setting up our tent in the rain, inflating our mattresses, setting up the chairs and the putting them under the vestibule loaded with our helmets, boots and gear, and then lighting our whisper light backpacking stove, or perhaps looking for a camp kitchen, to heat water for a tuna & couscous dinner, heat another pot of water for an after dinner coffee and then heat another pot of water to clean up the camping cups, bowls and silverware.   After all that then packing up for the night so that he kangaroos and wildlife don't run off with our gear, then crawling into our small tent, snuggled cozy in our sleeping bags listening to the rain and wind as we fall off to sleep…hoping that we keep dry during the night!  With the camper van we plugged it in, turned on the gas, opened the fridge, prepared a fresh salad, complete with salad dressing and tossed a nice juicy steak into a salted hot pan…and poured a wine!  Now, you might be thinking that I prefer the camper van and that's just not the case.  I'm enjoying the simplicity of it.  I would even say this tiny Toyota Hi-Ace is luxurious compared to motorcycle camping, although, we're not experiencing the world the same way as we do on the bikes.  Motorcycling is so "in your face"!  You are engaged in your surroundings 110% of the time.  I will need to pay extra attention to what is going on outside of the van and maybe ride/drive with my head sticking out of the window from time to time…just to smell and taste the life around… soak it all in!….ha ha ha 

Port Arthur is an amazing place.  This penal station housed more than 2000 convicts at its industrial height.  Men were not only to be punished, they were to be reformed and turned into useful citizens. The Port Arthur Historic Site Management Authority has done an incredible job of preserving, and restoring, not only the structures of this 100 acre Penitentiary and town, but, of telling the stories of the individual prisoners and what life was like for them. Kev and I spent the entire day caught up in the historical moments, touring around the 30+ buildings, ruins, beautiful grounds and gardens.   Amazingly enough the British Empire considered the age of responsibility to be deemed at  7 years of age, back in the day…hard to imagine!  Located just across the harbor from Port Arthur was Point Puer, the first reformatory built exclusively for juvenile male convicts, infamously known for its strict regime of stern disciple and harsh punishment.  Between the years of 1834 and 1849, 3000 boys between the ages of 8 - 12 were sentenced and transported to Point Puer, for reformation. 

The Coal Mines is another historical site not far from the Port Arthur penal station.  These coal mines produced most of the coal used in Van Dieman's Land and originally opened 3 years after Port Arthur was established in the 1830's.The Coal Mines also served as a punishment station of men who had committed a serious offense.  Only convicts who were skilled miners worked at the coal face.  They dug an average of 3 tons per day and had 3 convict laborers to clear the coal.

The coastline of this Port Arthur area is absolutely spectacular!  There is a distinct harshness in the air that is softened by the raw remote beauty of this land.  And as you look out over the cliffs, bluffs and harbors, a chilly wind whips over you and raises the hair on the back of your neck… imagine the fear and dread the convicts would have experienced as they were being transported to Van Dieman's Land...Boy…how frightening it would have been!!

Tasmania has equally interesting animals!  We visited a Tasmanian Devil Sanctuary in the area, experienced a feeding and learnt about the Quoll, Pademelon, Bettong and the Thylacine (Tasmanian Tiger), who's now extinct with the last sighting being in the 1930's.  Very cool stuff!

Port Arthur Penitentiary ​

Port Arthur Penitentiary 

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​The hospital

The hospital

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convict built church

convict built church

Officers quarters

Officers quarters

Tasmanian Devil

Tasmanian Devil

Cat waiting for the a Devils to be fed.​

Cat waiting for the a Devils to be fed.​

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Kev feeding the roo's

Kev feeding the roo's

​Blustery  coastline.​
​Blustery  coastline.

Kev in one of the convict cells at the Coal Mines​.

Kev in one of the convict cells at the Coal Mines​.

Pirate Cove

Pirate Cove

Coal Mine ruins​

Coal Mine ruins

February 28, 2013…Oonandatta Track, South Australia

Wow… where do I start? February 28th was 2 1/2 months ago and I'm just now able to write about my accident. Here goes:

Kev and I were glad to wake to a clear blue sky. We were still considering our choices…would we take the bitumen road straight to Adelaide or head out on the dirt and explore the Flinders Range and take the long route to Adelaide? We packed, saddled up, shot a few videos around town and then headed out towards the Oonandatta Track. All looked good…the William Creek Road was open, the dirt was nicely packed, the day was young and new, and we were up for the adventure. Kev and I spent some time videoing, shooting pictures and enjoying the freshness of the morning scape around us. The Dog Fence was just in front of us, so Kev decided to set up "hollywood style" and shoot a couple of shots of us crossing the grated fence line. Only moments after this everything changed!

I was comfortably at ease with the dirt conditions. The road presented the odd corrugation, and "loose stuff", but really nothing too dramatic or challenging…all in all a pretty comfortable track! I was riding along, comfortable in my stance…hips forward, weight evenly distributed, standing securely on my pegs knees slightly bent, arms relaxed, focused on the road ahead, relaxed and enjoying my tunes…Really just another awesomely blissful day of riding. Then without sign or warning my handlebars pitched, slapped my tank, and seized my upper body into a heightened frenzy. I had hit an undetectable patch of dirt that was a fine loose dust… Accelerate, slight pressure on the rear brakes…pull to the right, and recover. "Dammn I made it!", was my initial thought, although wiped from my mind as quickly as it came. Now accelerating, out of the first encounter met another patch of deadly bull dust. It was not pretty! I fought hard as the fine, loose, patch grabbed my bike and threw me to the ground. As I was going down, I thought, "How could this be happening?" I had ridden the first patch out! I was not going to give up, not going to jump off…but I was wrong. Milliseconds later I was tossed off my bike like a rag doll. My eyes were face to face with the red dirt…"What just happened?" I can't believe it! Shaken my eyes refocus, I taste blood…I have bitten my bottom lip and feel the immediate swelling.

I hear Kev call out to me "Are you all right, Cat?" I reply, "I think so!…Just give me a minute to catch my breath" "Alright… I'm going to take a picture" Kev responded. I lay there for a minute or so, definitely shaken…I just wanted to zone in on what had happened. I tried to push myself up from the ground, but couldn't. I felt the rush of blood, an unusual prickly numbness mixed with moderate pain entering both wrists. I rolled over onto my back only to see Kevin with the camera and video capturing the moment. "I think that I have done something to my arms, I can't seem to push up off the ground", I said nervously! "Just lay there and take it easy, does your head hurt?" Kev asked with concern. "No, not really", I replied. As I lay there in the red sandy dirt looking up to into the bight blue sky, my mind was becoming more concerned with what had happened, what I had done and what to do…I was scared. Sit up and figure it out I told myself. I crunched my back off the dirt, at least that did not hurt I thought, to a seated position and took a few deep breaths once again. I wanted to get off the road so I instinctively put my arms down to help myself stand…yowch….that didn't work! I bent my knees under my body and was able to stand without the use of my hands. I'm up, and I am not disorientated or dizzy, that is a great thing!

Kev had pulled his bike off the road and was on his way over to me with the first aid kit. Damn, this was not meant to happen! I pulled my glove off my right hand and took a look at my wrist, it is a little swollen. Maybe I just sprained it? No grazes or open wounds, just a small nick on my knuckle…lucky! Kev carefully wrapped a fresh Ace Bandage around my wrist to give it a little support. "Do you think that you will be able to ride?", Kev asked. "I don't know…..hmmm, I don't think so, I can't even lift my hand", I squirmed. "Alright, lets just chill for a bit and see if you feel a little better", Kev suggests…Deal! So while we are chill'n Kev decides to get the video camera out, be creative or annoying, capture this event, and keep my spirits up and mind off the situation. We are in the middle of nowhere, although I did take note of the last marker, so I do have an idea approximately where in the middle of nowhere we are. "Kev I'm not feeling so good, maybe we should see if we can get a cell signal to ask for help?", I suggest. While on the track this morning we had only seen one car, and I am not confident that we would see many more. Kev checks his phone, and he happens to have an on again off again baby bar. Kev makes an emergency call and is immediately cut off. After playing emergency phone tag, the alert had been placed and help was on its way. We do carry a satellite tracker, called SPOT, so if we had no service at all we could have hit a button that would have placed an emergency tracker.

The pain was definitely kicking in now, my wrist was swelling up, throbbing, and my mind was starting to play worrisome anxious games. Kev kept chatting with me and cracking jokes, trying to keep my mind off of things. By this time I was not in a very humorous mood! It was not long until the 4WD ambulance had reached our location, not far from the dingo fence and about 36 kilometers out from Coober Pedy. The ambulance medic approaches me and asks me about my condition. "Do you have any pain, numbness or tingling in your neck, head, back or legs?" he asks. "No I don't think so. My wrists feel pretty weird though ", I reply. After getting me on a stretcher, the ambulance drivers asked me if they could cut my jacket off…"OH NO, not my riding jacket ", I blurted. So I sat up and tried to take my left glove of my hand, wow, I think that I may have done something to my thumb. I then managed to uncomfortably squirm and maneuver my arm out of my jacket, my face grew hot and I starting breaking into a cold sweat. Ok, we have saved the jacket. "Where is your helmet, I would like to see it?", the medic asks. "Over by my bike", I reply. "Nice helmet, I actually have the same and there doesn't seem to be any damage", he says.

Leaning over me on the stretcher the girl medic asks me if I have used "the green pen" before? "No", I reply. "What is your pain level from 1 - 10, 10 being the worst pain you have ever experienced!", the gal medic asks. "It is about a 6, moving to 7", I reply. "Ok darling, put this in your mouth, and take 3 long deep breaths in for me.", she kindly requests. "Are you able to hold it?", she kindly requests. "Not really", I respond. My left thumb has swollen up and has become pretty frozen and uncomfortable. So she wedges the pen between my thumb and pointer, and the swelling conveniently holds it in place. "How do you feel love?", she asks. "A little funny", I reply…."Good, deep breaths love, long deep breaths", she requests calmly. While I am getting sorted with this green pen, the male medic is trying to stabilize my right arm with a cardboard split. He removes the bandage that Kevin had placed, and works on getting me comfy. There is quite a bit of swelling and a definite distortion in my arm structure around the wrist area…I am feeling a little woozy. Soon, I am sorted and comfy in the ambulance, this green pen, also known as the magic flute seems to be doing the trick. The police have arrived by this time and pop their head into the ambulance to see how I am doing. "Ahh, she's right!", I hear with a chuckle. Yeah I feel pretty good right now! "Ok love, we are going to make our way to the hospital. I will try to drive as to keep you as comfortable as possible on this dirt road, Just keep sucking on the pen", says the girl medic. And we are off. Along the way the guy medic monitors my vitals, keeps me company, and chats with me about riding. You know the ambulance drivers did tell me their names when they arrived, although for some reason I could not seem to remember them!

While I was being transported to Coober Pedy Hospital Kev was talking to the police. The police kindly offered to have one officer stay with Kev's bike, the other officer follow Kev back to town on my bike, luckily there was no damage to my bike, just a couple of scratches, and then drive him back out to pick up his bike. On the way back out for Kev's bike the officer volunteers her home if we need some place to stay. Once again, Kev's overwhelmed by kindness of strangers. After Kev picks up his bike he stops by the police station for them to make some copies of our paperwork and then rides out to the Hospital. When he comes in, I'm laying in the emergency room nervous, but, feeling very lucky as I'm in a hospital and not camped out waiting for help in the outback. The hospital in Coober Pedy is the only hospital between Alice Springs and Adelaide and the doctor is wearing a pair of shorts, a t-shirt and Blundstones. Classic! They had an x-ray machine, a little on the blink, but, working. Everyone was very nice, but, I quickly got the feeling they didn't know what to do with me. The doctor had reviewed the X-rays and said that I had broken my right wrist and the base of my left thumb, he was concerned, I was over whelmed. After a few hours, they put a temporary splint on each arm, let me know they were waiting for the orthopedic doc's in Adelaide to review the x-rays and put me in a room for the night for observation. The hospital staff offered for Kev to pull a recliner in from another room and stay the night with me. He unloaded our clothes and toiletries, parked the bikes behind the hotel a few blocks away and started to care for me. I was helpless, frustrated, scared, uncomfortable and very tired. The next day was the worst pain wise, I felt as though I had been run over by a road train! Everything hurt! My pain was at times around the 8 zone, my mind was worrisome constantly fixed on the possibility of neck or spinal injuries, generally it was a completely miserable day. We spent two nights camped out in the hospital with Kev feeding, washing, helping me in and out of bed, adjusting my covers, pillow, scratching my itches, brushing my hair, all toiletry needs, watching over me while I slept and generally acting as my personal nurse while we waited for the doctor to tell us what the next step was. Kev made some calls from the hospital and arranged for the bikes to be shipped to Adelaide while we researched whether we'd bus or fly out of Coober Pedy once were on the move again.

Saturday morning they let us know they'd be casting me up in the afternoon and we were free to head out if we wished. It wasn't busy and they were clear that we could stay as long as we needed, or until they needed the room. We decided bussing out would be best and agreed to catch the 8:30 pm bus out of Coober Pedy to Adelaide. The bus would arrive in Adelaide at 7:30 am the next morning, Sunday, and we'd then train to Melbourne on Monday if all was still ok. Around 4pm on Saturday they cast my arms up, I had been in splints until then. My right wrist was cocked over towards the left, crooked and unnatural looking. My left thumb was swollen and there was now a huge pyramid distortion on the top of my hand. Both palms were beginning to turn black and yellow, and all 10 fingers were swollen twice their original size. Now, the head nurse began to prepare a cart with all that was needed to cast both arms in fiberglass. She insisted that the aide that was on duty be available to watch the procedure and help her set my arms. Half way during the casting procedure the head nurse was called away. She encouraged the aide, who had never cast a break before, to proceed with the wet, warm fiberglass bandages and complete the job. The head nurse did not return until both casts were complete. Now I am not a doctor, and I have never broken a bone let alone had a cast on before, but these casts did not feel right. They certainly looked good, neat and tidy, one arm cast red and the other blue. An hour had passed and I was being to experience some problems with the casts. I called for the doctor and he agreed that both arms were cast too tight, and that they should have separated my thumb from my fingers when casting up my right wrist. Learning that we were traveling on the bus to Adelaide tonight he tried to remedy the problem. He left the room and returned with pruning sheers and the new nurse on duty. The doctor then proceeded to try and snip away at the cast, but found it very difficult. The nurse took over, being a former concrete laborer and boasting of her hand strength, successfully remedied the problem…for now!

It was a hot out as we boarded the bus in the center of Coober Pedy. Seeing that I was completely helpless the conductor personally arranged my seating, making sure that the seat was left open beside me. Now this bus ride is like no other! It is quite hard to imagine, and definitely a once in a lifetime experience, one that I will never take again. It is an overnight trek, and the outback is swarming with nocturnal life during these hours. Just as I was starting to drift off arms raised in front of me, I was thrown forward by the bus abruptly braking to dodge large kangaroos and emus tin the middle of the road. This did not happen once or twice, but around 40 times throughout the trip. On a rest stop I said to the bus driver "You are doing a great job missing the roo's"…his response was "Tonight I am!"…I felt ill! The bus also collected the mail from the huge cattle stations mail boxes on the edge of the highway in the area. It was an awkward rocky trip, that left us both exhausted. Although I'm tired, I am super thankful that I did not have to experience any thuds!

We arrived in Adelaide around 7am. I was tired and sore and needed to lie down. We walked to our hotel and asked if it was possible to get a super early check in. I sported my sad cat eyes and lifted up my arms, I was beat. I think that we checked into our room by noon and I was flopped on the bed by 12:01pm! After some horizontal rest, an assisted bath, dressing and hair styling, it was happy hour. Kev and I followed the music, walked into the city district of Adelaide, up some rickety steps of an old pub, parked it on a couple of cushions and enjoyed some wine, me with a straw and enjoyed listening to the improv musicians of the night.

We boarded the Overlander train the next morning and were comfortably seated and bound for Melbourne by 8am. I am in good spirits, comfortable and enjoying the beautiful scenery.

Ten hours later we have arrived in Melbourne. What a journey! My Dad picked us up from the Southern Cross train station, it is great to see him although I would have rather been arriving on my bike.

The next morning I am scheduled to see the doctor. He agrees that I have been cast incorrectly and that my casts are too tight. He refers me onto the hospital where they are able to handle any situation that may arise. I checked in at the hospital at 1pm, Tuesday afternoon, and did not leave until 1pm Friday afternoon! My breaks both required surgery in order for them to heal correctly. I was also experiencing pain and distorted sensations down my right arm so the doctors ordered a CT scan and MRI of my head, neck and back. Thank goodness they all came back clear. The surgery required that they place 2 pins into the base of my left thumb to hold the break together, and a plate secured by screws into my right wrist area to secure the radius and crushed bones around it. It had been a week since I actually had the accident, and my body had already started the healing process. The surgery was lengthy, traumatic and thankfully successful. All I remember of the surgery was waking up in recovery 4 hours later in the most excruciating pain that I had ever experienced in my life!…A 15 on a scale of 10! It was a long night! Funny …I remember waking in the morning just in time to see the food service staff placing my breakfast in front of me. I looked at my tray, I looked at my arms. The right arm was securely back slabbed and bound from knuckles to elbows, my left thumb has been isolated cast in plaster, knuckles to elbow. How am I going to eat this? I was sore and very nauseous, anyway. It can wait. After delivering the breakfasts, they noticed my dilemma! The lady kindly made my tea and placed a straw in it, buttered and vegemited my toast, and helped me into a position I could somewhat handle. By the time Kev had showed up I had managed to eat a couple of bites of toast and drink my tea. "Looks like you enjoyed your toast Cat because it is all over your face!", We laughed! I was very thankful for the expert concern and care that I was given during this ordeal.

The next 8 weeks I spent learning how to handle, not being able to handle or lift anything! There were good and bad days, painful and pain free days, challenging and successful days… we worked it out. I learned to have more patience, only ask for one thing at a time, appreciate all attempted and given help, take long deep breaths, say thank you often and above all keep a positive outlook and just keep smiling.

Thank you Anne for strawing my wine, Lisa for keeping my glass full, Kossana for washing and styling my hair, Mel for painting my nails and giving me facials, Draga for making me toffees, Shelly for your hospitality, Mina for your awesome hugs and friendship, Leanne for your kindness and great dinners, Debbie and Melissa for catching up in between your busy schedules, Paul for all your help with the bikes, Georgia for playing Easter Bunny, All my nieces and nephews loving hugs, everyones concern and best wishes, Mum and Dad for rearranging your schedule, the use of the Muddie, car and home cooked meals, and most of all Kevin, I would have been helpless and lost without you baby!

Today, my arms are healing well. I have surprisingly great movement and rotation in my right wrist, and my left thumb is feeling more and more like mine every day. I can't wait to be riding again and will be back on the bike by the middle of July heading to Alaska.

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February 26 - 27, 2013…Coober Pedy, South Australia

Kev an I meet our 8am planned departure and are excited to be experiencing the rawness of the Outback once more.  We pound out the kilometers in hopes that we can reach Coober Pedy before the temperature becomes too uncomfortable for us.  Well camouflaged by the saltbush on the dry sandy plains Grey Kangaroos pop up their heads up from time to time checking things out like curious huge ground squirrels.  Emus are in abundance running across the dry earth, or at times, across the road in front of you!!  

It is just after 3pm when we ride into the Opal Mining Capital of the World…Coober Pedy and the temperature gauge reads 102 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius).  Why is it the last hour to your destination always drags, with the last 20 k's lasting for hours it seems???  Kev checks us in at the Desert Cave Hotel.  Sweaty and excited we ride around to our "dug out" room and open the door…Wow…This is totally cool!  The rooms have a thick rough ribbed textured look to them that is created by the mining machinery as it is being dug-out. The underground rooms temperatures remain between 23 - 25 degrees Celsius all year round!  No air-conditioning is necessary which is amazing for this hot desert climate with temperatures that have rose above 50 degrees Celsius. South Australia is the driest state on the driest continent on earth, and Coober Pedy is one of the very driest regions of South Australia.  Coober Pedy,  Aboriginal for "White Mans Hole" annual rainfall  is only 175mm.  We have hit Coober Pedy on a full moon and I hope to catch some great outback shots tonight, although pretty spectacular storm clouds are moving in caused by Cyclone Rusty on Western Australia's Pilbara Coast so I'll have to see what happens!

Kev and I woke to silence and darkness in our cave like room.  I took a quick peek outside the door to check on the bikes and to my surprise it was raining.  I knew that there was a cool change coming, but I did not expect this much rain…Coober Pedy's first rain of the season.  Hmm this will take a bit of thought!  Do we load up in the wet and chance it or hang around for another day and see how the weather pans out?  Only last night had we researchers and planned our route across Williams Creek Rd (dirt), then onto the Oodnadatta Track (dirt), which would take us by beautiful Lake Eyre and then on through the Flinders Ranges.  Kev and I went to sleep excited about our adventure route back into the Adelaide area.  Now it looks as though Mother Nature has other plans for us!  Kev and I decide to head to brekky, discuss our options, chat with a couple of locals and formulate a plan.  The rain is coming down fairly consistently, so we vote for staying on another day in hopes that it will stop and start to dry out.  Chatting with a couple of the residents we learnt that Williams Creek Rd was flooded in sections, and south of Williams Creek was receiving heavier rainfall…Kev and I were happy with our move.  Once we commit ourselves to Williams Creek Rd we have 452 k's of dirt and no outs! 

I made a call to the front desk to ask if the tour of Coober Pedy is running for the day…we're in luck it is, and even luckier to find out that Kev and I are the only ones!  A rained out day for Kev and I proceeded to be an amazing day of desert color, awesome photographic opportunities, with a ex-opal miner/sculptor german tour guide, who was a real character.  We saw everything that Coober Pedy had to offer and grew to understand the draw and appeal to living underground, surviving the harsh temperatures and excitement of the dig ,all for this luminescent and mesmerizing piece of compressed silica and water…the opal!  Think of the opal as a slice of solidified rainbow!  It is hard to imagine that this dry dusty desert was once a thriving inland sea that stretched into the Queensland area. Opals, opalized fossils like cockle shells, muscles, squid tubes and prehistoric sea creature bones are still being excavated from this area, and are a spectacular sight.

 

Amazing flocks of Emu's running a muck all the way up to Coober Pedy.

Amazing flocks of Emu's running a muck all the way up to Coober Pedy.

The flies are an absolute bugger!​

The flies are an absolute bugger!​

Fancy red bugs in the outback!...Mmmmm

Fancy red bugs in the outback!...Mmmmm

​A very hot sweaty, dusty, dirty day!

A very hot sweaty, dusty, dirty day!

Coober Pedy, "White Mans Hole"​​
Coober Pedy, "White Mans Hole"​

​Our dug-out hotel room

​Our dug-out hotel room

​Underground in the hotel.

​Underground in the hotel.

​Dug-out church

​Dug-out church

Umoona Opal Mine and  Dug-Out Motel.

Umoona Opal Mine and  Dug-Out Motel.

​Amazing buys under one roof!

​Amazing buys under one roof!

​The "swiss cheese" opal mine countryside!

​The "swiss cheese" opal mine countryside!

The Breakaways, a sacred site of the Antakirinja Matuntjara Yankunytjatjara People.  The Inland Ocean!

The Breakaways, a sacred site of the Antakirinja Matuntjara Yankunytjatjara People.  The Inland Ocean!

Amazing landscape....bursting with color after the rain!​

Amazing landscape....bursting with color after the rain!​

​Really hard to believe that this was once part of a thriving inland ocean stretching all the way to the east coast of Australia!

Really hard to believe that this was once part of a thriving inland ocean stretching all the way to the east coast of Australia!

Coober Pedy's Sphinx! ​ Known as Papa to the Aboriginal People, one of the two sitting dogs.

Coober Pedy's Sphinx! ​ Known as Papa to the Aboriginal People, one of the two sitting dogs.

​The Dog Fence that forms an unbroken barrier that stretches over 5,300 km through South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales.  It is the only barrier that prevents dingoes entering the sheep grazing country in the south.

​The Dog Fence that forms an unbroken barrier that stretches over 5,300 km through South Australia, Queensland and New South Wales.  It is the only barrier that prevents dingoes entering the sheep grazing country in the south.

The original "Danger Unmarked Holes" sign on the Oodnadatta  Track!

The original "Danger Unmarked Holes" sign on the Oodnadatta  Track!

Family room of a locals dug-out. Yes you can have a chandelier underground!​

Family room of a locals dug-out. Yes you can have a chandelier underground!​

Opal vien running through the home!​

Opal vien running through the home!

Magnificent Underground Serbian Orthodox Church. ​

Magnificent Underground Serbian Orthodox Church. ​

Beautiful opal cross.​

Beautiful opal cross.​

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​Kev standing on the church dug-out ramp way, light streaming in from the door.

Kev standing on the church dug-out ramp way, light streaming in from the door.

Packing up to leave Coober Pedy...We have our pineapple!​

Packing up to leave Coober Pedy...We have our pineapple!​

February 25, 2013…Adelaide then up to Port Pirie, SA

Kev and I woke to the sound of pitter patter…ahhh, and that is not little feet!...phew!  We are thankful that we did not have to pack up a wet tent and proceed to load up the bikes in the rain and head over to the SeaSA ferry to check in.  Apparently we had only paid for the bikes to ride on the ferry and not ourselves, so we owed them another $49.  Soon we were riding onto the ferry where we proceeded to tie down the bikes ready for their trip across the Spencer Gulf.  I was a little choppy for me and I found that sipping on a ginger beer helped alleviate the nausea.  2 1/2 hours later and we had arrived across the Gulf at Wallaroo, disembarked and proceeded to follow the line of cars through the small sea town and onto Adelaide.  We could not waist any time.  

Kev and I had to make it to the tire store before closing in hopes that they would have and install 2 sets of tires for us.  Kev turned on the GPS on his phone as we rode closer to the Adelaide area.  Apart from being freaked out by the amount of fast, close following metropolitan traffic in the area, we found the tire store without any problems.  GC Motorcycles were super accommodating. Within 30 minutes we had the tires fitted, balanced, paid for, googled our exit out of the area and were back on the road head for Port Pirie.  Super friendly, efficient and easy peasy…no cheap as chips, but very fair!  

By 7pm Kev and I were riding into Port Pirie quite worn out from the day.  We decided to get a cabin for the night, get a good nights sleep and ensure a fast get away in the morning…tomorrow we have a 6 1/2 hour ride to Coober Pedy, and we want to be at the heat!

Amazing Cowell sunset.​

Amazing Cowell sunset.​

​Cowell on fire!

​Cowell on fire!

​Waiting for the SeaSA ferry

​Waiting for the SeaSA ferry

Tied  down and  ready for the trip across the Spencer Gulf.

Tied  down and  ready for the trip across the Spencer Gulf.

​At GC Motorcycles, Adelaide. (awesome shop)  The bikes are getting fitted and balanced with new tires!

​At GC Motorcycles, Adelaide. (awesome shop)  The bikes are getting fitted and balanced with new tires!

​​New nobbys front and rear for both bikes :)

​New nobbys front and rear for both bikes :)

February 23 - 24, 2013…Franklin Harbor, Cowell, SA

Brekkied, packed up, suited up and on the road by 9am.  This morning brought a beautiful warm coastal ride that took us through a really neat town at the entrance to Spencer Gulf named Port Lincoln.  We rode on through Tumby and Arno Bay and pulled into Cowell a small coastal town by Frankiln Harbor and only 25 k's or so from the passenger/vehicle ferry across to Adelaide.  We have decided to get an air-conditioned box at the foreshore caravan park and rest in the comfort of cool air while this high temp passes through.  Checked in early today we ride around to our box, open up, turn on the air, unload the bikes and gear, and wait to cool down.  Ahh air-conditioning… such a luxury especially when you have been outside 24/7 in 40 degree celsius weather for the last couple of days.  Kev and I rest for a couple of hours and surprisingly find ourselves very revived and ready to hit the town!  There is not much going on in Cowell, in fact the streets are empty, where is everyone?….Ahh, the pubs of course!  I suggest an Aussie Pub Crawl, between the two pubs on the main strip, a go on the pokies (slot machines) and gambling on the horses…a very fun afternoon.  We drank, gambled, watched the horses and waited for the kitchen to open up for dinner…we had forgotten about lunch and were getting pretty hungry.  Now six o'clock the dining room opened and we ordered our tea…2 prawn cocktails and a seafood pizza to share.  We enjoyed our meal while watching The Raiders of the Lost Arc, on the dining room plasma. 

A morning walk down to the jetty then a stop off at shops, only open from 10am to 12 noon today.  I will pick up a couple of supplies for the day before getting stuck into this blog!

 

Our AirBox, Cowell, S

Our AirBox, Cowell, S

Pub  # 

Pub  # 

Pub #

Pub #

​Feeding the pokies

​Feeding the pokies

How do I do this? ​Which horse do I pick?

How do I do this? ​Which horse do I pick?

Towbar Teddy was not a winner :(​

Towbar Teddy was not a winner :(​

​Fun Arvo off the bikes!

​Fun Arvo off the bikes!