Excited to have downloaded Mexico Maps….kind of helps when you are in Mexico, we packed and saddled up and headed out of Mazatlan. Well…..tried to head out of Mazatlan! Kev had entered the destination town of San Blas into Navi…which was correct, but he had the incorrect state. There is actually a San Blas in the state of Sinaloa, and Nayarit. The San Blas in Sinaloa is actually just south of El Fuerte, the old spanish colonial town we visited and loved so much…the opposite direction that we intended to be traveling. So I guess that you can figure out what happened for the next hour! Yes we actually got to see quite a bit of Mazatlan. Both of our frustration levels were beginning to climb as Navi kept maneuvering us to the Mazatlan ferry docks…now that, I cannot figure out. Maybe taking the ferry north was faster than riding? Finally we turned Navi off and retraced our original route into Mazatlan, off the Federal Highway 15, 5 days ago, and exited the area.
The ride was beginning to heat up as the farming countryside now turned into a lush tropical retreat. There were only 3 tolls today, still stiff, totaling 182$MEX, $14US per bike and a lot of federal activity on the road. I guess the tolls are at work! Navi is turned off and I really did not take a mental picture of the map this morning before heading out. I always like to do this as it always give me a feel and some sort of sense of direction as we pass through towns.
We had been riding for 3 hours, and I needed a break, maybe lunch and a stretch. As we approached the last toll station I saw a food and gas sign so I communicated to Kev that I needed petrol, so lets stop at the station after this toll. Come to find out they were a little premature about posting gas and food signs….the station was still being built and there was no food available. We do have food on Kev's bike, and I thought of a small picnic option for lunch but I did not spy a safe shaded area to do this in. I still had about 80 miles of fuel, including my reserve so I think all is good. We take the turn off towards San Blas hoping that the town is large enough for a petrol station.
The ride into San Blas was fabulous. The twists and turns accompanied by the lush tropical forests surrounding them was a fantastic treat. As we entered the village area before the township, roadside restaurants were grilling freshly caught Marlin and other fishes that made my mouth water. "Let's stop and eat", I radioed to Kev, and we pulled over at the next roadside restaurant and parked the bikes in the barbecued smoke filled air. Kev and I roughly expressed that we would like to eat what they have cooking on the grill. The Señora called over to her hombre for communication help. Beaming ear to ear with his pearly whites the hombre began to tell us about his fabulous Marlin and that a big piece would feed both of us. Great that's what we are having then. "Beber/Drink?", the hombre asked…"bottled agua?", we replied…"No! CokA, Si?", he exclaimed with a grin. Kev and I looked at each other, we really did not want a coke but I guess that will do. The Marlin was delicioso, accompanied with fresh salsa and beans . The meal cost $115MEX, $8.85US, and we didn't finish the coke!
San Blas is a true gem with it's cobbled stoned streets, 2 story balcony haciendas, church ruins, and weathered city square surrounded by broken cafe's, bars and restaurants. In a way it kind of reminds me of New Orleans! There are no stop signs or lights in town! It is amazing how cars, trucks, mopeds, bicycles, motorcycles, atv's, food carts, skateboarders, and dogs do not run into each other. I enjoyed sitting at a cafe table across from the square fascinated by how busy, and relaxed everyone was weaving in and out of their daily routine. Although the icing on the cake has to be the Hacienda we are staying at! Originally built in 1880 as a terminal by the Southern Pacific Railroad, abandoned then purchased by a German businessman, then later a wealthy Mexican businessman gifted to his wife as a cottage away from home. The grounds are vintage, colonial, whimsy, homey, comfortable, peaceful and immaculate. I just can't get enough of this colonial spanish architecture, and love the feeling of rocking back and forth in a leather rocking chair listening to the fountain imagining what was! Today a rocking chair in which Don Luis, the Germans attorney sat and spent his last days, can be seen rocking itself…..Yes it is haunted, and you can feel it!